The Handmade Lotion Trials: Second Batch

Look how pretty this lotion is – so creamy and smooth.  I scented it with rose and bergamot essential oils.  I actually prefer a lotion with little or no scent but I had to mask the distressing animal scent of the shea butter.  Shea butter is NOT made from any animal parts.  It comes from a tree.  However, it smells and repells me like lanolin does.  The point is – isn’t this lotion pretty and doesn’t it look perfect?

One hour later it has hardened and separated.  What the hell?!  What happened?  It was so smooth and perfectly emulsified!  From what I’m reading this may be because the water and oils weren’t at the same temperature when emulsifying.  I don’t have a thermometer.  Actually, I have two but neither of them are working.  The candy thermometer never worked and my digital one is so confusing to use that I’ve given up.

Before the gross disaster occurred, I used a little of the lotion and I liked it better than the first batch.  It has a slightly sticky feel to it which while not ideal is more preferable to me than the slick greasy feel of the coconut based first batch.  For the sake of remembering what I used I will record ingredients and amounts here:

1 tsp yellow beeswax

1/2 cup distilled water

1 tbsp glycerin

1 1/2 tbsp shea butter

2 tbsp sweet almond oil

1 tbsp wheat germ oil

enough rose and bergamot essential oils to mask the unpleasant odor of the shea butter.

This recipe is based on the Cocoa Butter and Rose Cream from the book “Natural Beauty Recipe Book” by Gill Farrer-Halls.  I couldn’t get my hands on real rose water so I used distilled plain water instead.  There is a worldwide shortage of jojoba oil right now so I didn’t want to contribute to that shortage, instead I used wheat germ oil which is used in a few other lotion recipes in this book.  After doing a lot of reading about the various butters I concluded that shea butter was the least greasy and best option for my skin, so I used that instead of cocoa butter.  The essential oils called for were rose, frankincense, and chamomile oils.  Each of these oils is very expensive.  Way out of my price range.  Luckily I already happen to have some good quality rose oil so I used that and then found I had bergamot which I love in combination with rose.  By this time – as you can see – it is barely the same lotion as the original but I kept all proportions of oils to waters the same and followed the instructions.  Except for the part about hand whipping it.

Here are my notes on making lotion up to this point:

  • I have a strong aversion to the less refined butters – the smells are repugnant to me.  This bothers me because the less refined they are the more nutrients they have to offer my skin.  The less refined a butter or oil is the stronger its scent.  So in future, if I want to have an unscented or very faintly scented lotion I’m going to have to buy the ultra refined de-scented oils and butters.
  • I might need to figure out how to reset my digital thermometer.  Or buy a really reliable non-digital one.
  • Lotion making is easy, except for when it’s not.
  • Hand whipping the oils and waters is ridiculous.  I’m all for doing things without having to plug anything in but I was whipping and whipping and nothing was changing.  No magical emulsification was happening.  My blender knows how to GET IT DONE.
  • Even when the scent of something is pleasant to me (rose and bergamot) I am bothered by it being too strong.  Luckily for me (I guess) pure essential oils (particularly the citrus ones) lose strength much faster than their synthetic counterparts.  I remember how I used to wear perfume and smoke cigarettes and I loved all that strong scent around me*.  Not so much any more.
  • What lotion works for your skin is highly personal.  You may have tactile preferences or your skin may be drier or less dry and this will dictate what feels good on it.  My mom much prefers the first batch of lotion because she likes the greasier feel of it.  The slight stickiness of the second batch bothered her, whereas I didn’t mind it so much but was super bothered by the slick feeling of the first batch.
  • So if you plan to make your own lotions, expect to do some experimentation and trials of your own.  Do smaller batches (such as half batches)** so you don’t waste too many ingredients at a time.  If you don’t like a batch for yourself have your friends try it and if any of them like the ones you don’t – give it to them.
  • Take notes on what you do each time.  If you give a lotion to a friend  because they really like it – they may want to make it again so if you can tell them precisely what you did (any substitutions or deviations from the instructions) they can remake it and you will have effectively spread knowledge and skills that individuals should not lose to industry.

What’s up next: today I will attempt to re-heat the separated lotion and re-emulsify.  I’m hoping that if I heat them at the same time in the bowl they’ll be at the same temperature when I blend them.  All lotion making instructions have you heat the two elements separately and then blend so this might not work.  However, when I make my creamy mustard vinaigrette I put all the ingredients in one container and then emulsify – they’re all at room temperature… but why can’t I heat them together so they’re continually at the same temperature and then emulsify?  Why shouldn’t that work?  Well, today I’ll be able to report on whether it does or doesn’t.  I know one thing – those essential oils when heated can lose their scent which is why you always add them last when the lotion has cooled.  So I’ll have plenty to report after today’s experiment.

Stay tuned for the results!

*No lie.  I have always loved the smell of fresh cigarette smoke and when mixed with Opium perfume – so wonderful.  Or, at least, I used to love it.  There is a lingering nostalgia for me in those two scents but no longer any real pleasure in them because they are so poisonous to both people and the environment.

** There is a slight issue of batches being too small to be effectively emulsified in your blender so if you do half batches of recipes that are already somewhat modestly sized, you may need to emulsify by hand.  Good luck with that.

The Handmade Lotion Trials: First Batch

I ran out of my usual lotion last week.  I have been using St. Ives for years.  I’ve enjoyed various formulas they’ve come out with.  Generally speaking they use very mild scents and they’ve always been affordable.  All natural they are NOT.  I have branched out time and time again to find an all natural replacement for it but no formula has met my needs.  My skin is sensitive and very dry.  I use hand lotion obsessively.  I am very picky about what it should feel like and how it should perform.  I think everyone’s skin responds differently to moisturizers and so what works for me will not necessarily work for others.

When I got down to scraping the bottle of my St. Ives lotion I bought a replacement for it, once again telling myself that some day I would just try to make my own lotion.  I had a neighbor once who said she and her mom make their own lotion every year and said it’s really easy.  However, needing lotion RIGHT NOW TODAY THIS MINUTE I brought home a familiar formula of St. Ives called “Intensive Healing” and opened it up and slathered it on my dry legs and was instantly overwhelmed by the most potent fragrance – perfumey and strong enough to knock a horse out.  This was new.  They don’t usually have such obnoxious fragrances and usually the fragrances smell pretty natural.  This scent that accosted me from my own skin reminded me of a certain cologne-stinking produce man I have a secret and strong dislike for.

Not okay.  Not only that, even if I could stomach such a strong scent on myself, I am not okay with accosting other people with chemical fragrances that may give them headaches or worse – make them sick.  So I hit the lotion isle at Rite Aid hoping to find one last bottle of my tried and true lotion.  They didn’t have any.  I read every lotion bottle on the shelf.  Every damn one.  I’m pretty sure I made the Rite Aid employees very nervous.  The ingredients lists, even on the “natural” bottles, read like foreign languages.  Partly this is due to the fact that most of the companies list ingredients like vitamin E in fancy-pants science lingo.  Still, do I need all that crap in my lotion?

Remember: skin is the largest organ of your body and what you put ON it goes IN in it.  Into to your system.  Toxins enter your system easily through skin.

I complained about my lotion problem to my mom and she got all excited to try making our own.  I love this about my mom.  She is the greatest inspiration to me to make my own medicines and go the natural route.  She brought me up that way.  So we consulted our Rosemary Gladstar herbal recipes book and found she has a “perfect” lotion in it.  Last night we made it.

What it has in it: Coconut oil, sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, 8 vitamin E capsules (emptied), linseed oil (a tiny bit), beeswax (we used 1/2 ounce for this batch, the recipe says 1/2 to 1 ounce), filtered water, aloe vera gel, and some essential oil (grapefruit).

How did it turn out?  It’s thick, which is what I like in a lotion.  It smells like coconut, which I don’t like (though it’s a huge improvement on the nasty loud smelling bottle I have to ditch on someone who likes that kind of thing).  It has a greasy feeling finish, which I don’t like at all.

How hard was it to make?  Easy!  It worked really well following Gladstar’s directions.  It didn’t separate on us and it didn’t require any special equipment.  Cleaning my blender and the bowl we used may require a trip through the scouring hot dishwasher to remove all trace of the beeswax but that’s a small price to pay.

Is it less expensive to make your own than to buy it?  That is highly dependent on what oils you choose to use.  It is also difficult to cost because this recipe called for a tsp of lanolin but we had to fork out $11 for a whole bottle of it.  Stored properly the lanolin will last a very long time and we can use it for many batches (maybe as many as 10) which makes the cost difficult to determine.  We also had to buy vitamin E in capsules, we only needed 8 of them but had to buy a whole bottle.  That was another $10.  I think if you use inexpensive oils you can make a very cheap lotion.  While cheap is good when on a budget like we are, I insist on good quality so I’m willing to spend more for sweet almond oil.  Buying bulk oils online is probably the best way to reduce the cost of making it.

How much does one batch make?  We got a total of about 16 ounces of lotion.

I have two other books with lotion recipes in it and I also have a friend who makes lotion professionally who has offered to let me make some with her.  My plan is to devise a master formula to meet my personal preferences and learn enough about how to adjust it so that I can make suggestions to others who want to try their hand at this but who may want a different sort of performance from their lotion.

Biggest question I need answered: what controls how greasy a lotion feels?  The main ingredient in lotion is oil and obviously oil is grease – is it the amount of water that tempers the greasy feel?  Or does the beeswax also temper it?  Are there certain kinds of oils that are more or less greasy feeling?

I’ll report back when I’ve made my second batch.

Cabbage Garlic Soup for a Summer Cold

Getting summer colds is the pits.  Just when you think you’re out of the woods you get smacked in the head with congestion, headaches, a sore throat, and low energy.  As everyone knows, you can’t cure a cold.  The strategy should always be to lessen the symptoms and the duration of the cold as much as possible.  So when I woke up at 4am three nights ago with all the symptoms of a cold coming on suddenly, I immediately took a bunch of nasty-huge multi vitamins meant to boost the immune system (the ones I use are “Wellvitamins” and I only use them when coming down with something because they’re very expensive) and I drink lots of elderberry syrup, water, and sometimes I make up some ginger and honey tea or sage and honey tea.

That’s all well and good, but if you feed yourself crap while doing all the other good things you should be doing, it’s like shooting yourself in the foot.  First thing you should do when you feel like you’re coming down with any kind of cold or flu is make soup.  I believe that all soups have healing powers, even the cheesy ones, but if you’re getting sick I’d like to recommend making a vegetable soup full of vitamin C, garlic, and cayenne pepper.  Like this cabbage and garlic soup I’m sharing here.

Cabbage is full of vitamin A, C, calcium, and potassium.  Tomatoes are full of vitamin A (!!!), vitamin C, and (you guessed it) potassium.  Potatoes are full of vitamin C and more Potassium than cabbage and tomatoes combined.  Carrots don’t have much vitamin C to speak of but as everyone knows they are crammed with vitamin A and what many people may not know is that they are also quite rich in potassium.  All the ingredients in this soup will fill you with vitamins and minerals.  The navy beans are rich in calcium, phosphorous, and more potassium than any body could need.

The garlic (there’s a lot of it in this soup) is great for boosting the immune system and cayenne pepper is great for purifying your blood and helping it circulate better.  In addition to that, the cayenne will help loosen phlegm which will help clear your sinuses.

Cabbage Garlic Soup for a Summer Cold

10 servings

Ingredients:

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large onion, diced

2 bay leaves

4 quarts of water (more if needed)

1 cup navy beans, uncooked

2 tsp salt

4 carrots, chopped med

1/2 head cabbage, chopped

3 med. potatoes, diced med

28 oz can of diced tomatoes (or 1 quart of home canned)

12 cloves garlic, pressed or minced fine

1/8 tsp cayenne

1 1/2 tsp oregano

Method:

Heat the oil in a large soup pot on med/high heat and add the onion and bay leaves.  Saute until the onions lightly brown.  Add the water, beans, and salt.  Bring to a boil and then turn heat down to med/low and cook until beans are tender.  The time may vary, for me it was about one hour.  Be sure to check on them and stir them while cooking.

Add everything else into the pot and turn heat back up to med/high.  At this point it should be soupy but the amount of water you need may vary depending on how much of it cooked off while cooking the beans.  All the vegetables should be completely covered with broth.  Bring the soup back to a boil and then turn the heat down a little and let it cook until all the vegetables are tender.  Probably about 30 minutes.

This is how I eat my soup.  Lots of Parmesan and buttered toast.

Recipe notes: This soup makes 10 servings.  I don’t make small batches of soup because we eat it for leftovers and sometimes freeze it.  You can easily halve this recipe.  I used 12 cloves of garlic but you can use more.  Do it!  The next time I make this soup I plan to increase the garlic up to an entire head.  Once the soup is cooked through it doesn’t seem very garlicky.  Play with the amount of cayenne.  A very little can be really hot so go cautiously.  It should be hot enough to make you sweat a little and make your nose run after you eat it.  It should not be so hot that it’s painful to eat and burns a hole in your eye socket.  Unless you like pain like that, I won’t judge.  If you are inexperienced making soups I suggest you read my soup philosophy post- it will help you understand soups better and give you the confidence to play with them.

Soup Philosophy

This recipe is vegan and gluten free

Poison Oak Remedy: Green Clay

I have a very low sensitivity to poison oak which means that I can stand in the middle of a big patch of it and not get a rash.  I know this because I have stood, accidentally, in the middle of a big patch of it and didn’t get a rash. I have had a lot of exposure to it in my life and when my mom and brother would come down with horrible allergic reactions, I (who had been in the same places as them) would be spared.  This luck means that I have gone my whole life not having to worry about remedies for poison oak or seek relief for the itching it causes.

That has changed over time as my son got his first poison oak rash when he was three and though that time wasn’t too bad, every time he gets it he has a much worse allergic reaction than the last time.  I did some research the first time he got it and read as much as I could about it and discovered that there are some myths about poison oak that have been busted by science but which are difficult to bust in the minds of many who suffer from it.

The biggest myth is that once you get poison oak your rash is contagious and you can give it to others.  This is NOT true.  What gives people the rash is an oil produced in poison oak, called urushiol, which bonds with the proteins in your skin within the first 10 to 15 minutes of contact and once it has bonded the urushiol is absorbed into your skin and cannot be transferred to anyone else.

I have assembled a number of sources of information about poison oak which explain well that you can’t spread your own poison oak rash by scratching, the oozing that sometimes occurs can’t spread your rash either.  If you suffer from a sensitivity to poison oak and you don’t already know these things, please read up!  It will help you manage your rash exposure to know how you can get reintroduced to the oils through clothes and pet fur and will ease your mind to understand that you aren’t contagious once you’ve gotten the rash.

Once you have it, there’s nothing you can do to get rid of it.  For those who have severe reactions (my mother has been hospitalized from allergic reactions to poison oak) you may need to go to the hospital and get a steroid shot, but this is only done in very severe cases.  For everyone else the only thing you can do is control the itching and promote the healing of your rash by drying the sores and blisters out.

We have used a medicated steroid creme to help control the itching of my son’s poison oak rashes in the past and while it did help, it was not as efficacious as we could have hoped.  We have also resorted to using Itch-x from the pharmacy which does work well to control the itching for short periods of time but fails to help heal the rash itself which needs to be dried out, not kept moist with ointment.  During his most recent rash, which was worse than any of the previous ones he’s gotten, he was itching so much that he was raising big welts on his arms and body and causing his rash to bleed.  We listened to some suggestions from other people (there are soaps meant to help with poison oak) and then my mom asked why we didn’t use Calamine lotion.

I really didn’t know why I hadn’t tried it before.  I remembered that I had some green clay I’d gotten from an herbal shop and decided we’d try that.  Isn’t Calamine lotion mostly clay-like?  Maybe not, but I went home and mixed up some of my green clay and my kid was completely game (desperate) to try it so I covered all his rashes with the clay.  He was really happy with the results.  He told me it helped with the itching better than the ointments and felt more comforting.  We continued to use it for a week, applying it liberally every single night before bed.  Here’s what I used:

Ingredients:

1/3 cup green clay (Montmorillonite)

2 tbsp water

Method:

Measure out the clay into a ramekin and add the water.  Stir it until all the powder is incorporated and you have gotten most of the lumps out.  It should be thick.

The thickness makes it easier to get full coverage over the rash.  Too thin and it won’t work as well.

It should be thick enough that it doesn’t drip or slip when you scoop some up with your finger.

Apply it liberally to every area of your skin affected by the rash.  You may need to undress to do this.  Let it dry before covering it with clothes.

When you’re done applying the first round, you can put the rest of the clay in a small jar with a tightly sealing lid.  It will stay hydrated and ready for your next application if you keep the lid on when not in use.  How much you need will vary greatly depending on the extensiveness of your rash.  We used the clay treatment for a little over a week and I mixed up about this amount three times.  Use the above ingredients as a ratio and multiply to make a bigger batch ahead of time if you think you’ll need it.

An acquaintance of mine told me she uses clay for her son too, but she gets it directly from her property, so if you have clay in your yard do try to use that first!  You won’t even have to mix it up and it will be free!  She says it’s the only remedy that’s given relief to her son who is very sensitive to poison oak just like mine.

I bought my clay from an herb shop online, you may be able to find it at local shops that carry natural herbs and beauty supplies.

Poison oak information:

Poison Ivy, Oak, and Sumac Information Center

Cleveland Clinic: The Poison Plants

Andrew Weil on Poison Oak

Poison Oak FAQ

CDC on Poison Oak and other poisonous plants

Essentials for Every Medicinal Herb Garden


My mother has a certificate in herbology and a lot of experience growing, using, and foraging medicinal herbs.  She’s shown me how to make salves and at one time made me and my siblings all herbal first aid kits which included tinctures and salves she made herself.  My favorite item from that kit was her comfrey salve which I found very useful for many applications.

I believe everyone should grow medicinal herbs in their gardens.  You don’t need to be an herbologist to make use of medicinal herbs safely.  A couple of good herb books is all you need.  I am no enemy to modern medicine and depend on it for a number of things I could never find relief for with herbal medicines.  I believe in an integrated approach to medicines: take the best from the East and the West, take the best from the present and the past.

I always grow medicinals because they are generally gentle, cheap, and can be incorporated into your everyday health regimen.  There’s another reason I think everyone should grow some medicinals: what if commercially produced medicines were to become unavailable to you?

You should have on hand some herbs that you can use in emergencies to do things like reduce fevers, bring swelling down in sprains, heal cuts and bruises, treat burns, calm nerves, detoxify your liver, disinfect wounds, and reduce the symptoms of influenza.  Growing herbs to meet all these basic needs is neither difficult nor need it take up too much space in your garden.

How do you choose the essentials?  My mom and I love this game.  There is a dizzying number of medicinal herbs and plants that you can choose from to grow in your own yard, so how do you narrow it down?

  • Make a list of common issues you and your family experience: skin issues, headaches, colds, anxiety, persistent coughs… think of all the things you routinely find yourself needing to treat and include all first aid things you keep on hand.
    • Consult a reliable herbal book.  Look through the lists of herbs, read what each of them do, and discover which herbs are the most recommended for the needs of your family.  Most libraries will have several you can check out if you don’t have any of your own.  I will list some titles you can rely on for good information (these are all books I personally own and trust):

      “Herbal Remedies for Vibrant Health” by Rosemary Gladstar

      “Desk Reference to Nature’s Medicine” by Steven Foster and Rebecca L. Johnson  (published by National Geographic)

      “The Essential Natural Health Bible” by Nerys Purchon

      “The Complete Herb Book” by Jekka McVicar

      • When you have a list of all the herbs most likely to fulfill your family’s particular needs and those of general first aid, cull the list down to the ones that will grow well in your climate and ones you have room for.  Don’t exclude culinary herbs from this list, many of them have great medicinal qualities that improve your health simply by being used frequently in your cooking.  Thyme, for example, is a powerful antiseptic properties in addition to adding great flavor to soups and other savory dishes.

        While I believe choosing the herbs you grow should be based on your personal needs, there are herbs I believe everyone should be growing in their gardens regardless of who they are.  I’m going to give you two lists to start with.  The first will be a list of the herbs I think every single garden should be growing, this will be the bare essentials.  The second list is the one my mother and I have come up with for our own garden.

        Essentials for Every Medicinal Herb Garden:

        Comfrey – absolutely essential for healing cuts, bruises, burns, and sprains; the roots are great made into tea for your bath as it will soften and heal skin.

        Calendula – great for all skin issues (softens, cleans, heals), anti- inflammatory, antifungal.

        Thyme – strong antiseptic, antibacterial, antifungal, and antispasmodic properties.

        Sage – sore throats, antiseptic, immune booster, colds, and treats nervous exhaustion (I should be drinking this every day!).

        Peppermint – stimulating, refreshing; good for relieving indigestion, tension headaches, and spastic complaints of the gastrointestinal tract.

        Aloe Vera – soothes cuts and burns, nourishes and moisturizes skin.

        Elderberry – reduces severity of influenza symptoms, immune system stimulant, reduces fevers, colds, and ear and throat infections.

        Rosemary – good for digestive ailments, increases circulation, colds and flus, mouthwash, dandruff, and may ease depression and fatigue.

        The only one from that list that not everyone may be able to grow in their own garden due to its size is the elderberry.  Elderberry can be kept pruned to a reasonable size but left to its own devices it will become a big tree.  If you have room: plant it!

        Here is a complete list of what I will have in my own medicinal garden with the items I already have planted asterisked:

        Echinacea, lovage, rosemary*, comfrey*, beebalm, arnica*, calendula, balm of Gilead, borage, sage*, tarragon*, winter savory, feverfew, peppermint*, nasturtiums, parsley*, thyme*, vervain*, elderberry*, mullein*, oregano*, marjoram*, plantain*, roses*(for rosehips), and lavendar*.

        There are so many amazing and useful herbs you can plant in your garden.  Aside from the benefits these herbs offer to you personally they are also great for attracting beneficial insects that will increase pollination in your other plants and help keep in balance the pests that hurt your soil and plant health.

        What herbs do you grow and what are you planning to add to your garden this year?  I want to know!

         

         

        Ginger Syrup: DIY Apothecary

        ginger from an angle 2.jpgWhenever I feel a cold coming on I grab some fresh ginger, lemons, and honey and make a cup of tea for myself.  It doesn’t always prevent the cold from coming (though it has once or twice) but it eases up the symptoms and makes me feel a lot better.  Ginger is useful for a lot of ailments such as nausea, indigestion, infection, sore throats, and the flu. 

        Although I love making fresh ginger tea I sometimes want something stronger.  This syrup is it.  If you don’t like your ginger too spicy you can reduce the amount of ginger in this recipe, it will still be effective, just more gentle.  Made my way it will burn going down, warming your whole torso.   

        fresh ginger 2.jpgGinger is usually called a root and though I call it that myself it’s really a tuberous rhizome.  When you buy fresh ginger you want to look for a piece of root that is supple and tan.  Don’t buy any that has a shriveled or grey appearance or has mold on it.

        Ingredients:

        4 ounces of fresh ginger
        1 quart of water
        1 cup raw honey  

        chopped fresh ginger 2.jpgHow to make ginger syrup:

        Chop the ginger into small pieces (no need to peel the skin).  Add the ginger to a medium sauce pot with the quart of water and put the stove on high heat until the water boils.

        When the water boils turn down the heat (to med/low or low) so the water is only gently boiling.  Let it boil until the liquid reduces by half.  This will take roughly a half an hour but you should check it every ten minutes to see its progress. 

        straining ginger 2.jpgWhen the liquid has reduced by half, take the pot off the heat and let it cool down for a while.  When it’s cooled enough not to give you third degree burns, strain the solid ginger bits out by pouring it through a piece of butter muslin or doubled up cheese cloth.  Squeeze all the liquid you can out of the ginger and toss it onto your compost pile if you have one.

        At this point you have a ginger decoction.  To make it into a syrup you need to add the honey.  If your decoction has cooled down completely, heat it up again so that it’s warm (but not boiling), then remove from the heat and add the honey.  It’s important that your decoction isn’t boiling at this point because you don’t want to cook the honey.  It has a lot of beneficial qualities in its raw state that it loses when cooked.

        ginger syrup 2.jpg

        Stir the honey until it’s completely incorporated in the liquid.  When it’s completely cool pour it into a bottle or a jar and keep it in the fridge.  It should last up to a month.

        If you want a thicker syrup double the honey.  I didn’t want a really thick syrup but more honey will make it even better suited to soothing a sore throat.

        Dosage:  1 ounce every couple of hours while feeling acutely unwell or when your body feels low from an oncoming cold.  (This is merely my suggestion based on how I’ve found it useful and therapeutic.  You won’t hurt yourself taking more or less ginger syrup.)

        If you’re coughing a lot you can add an ounce of ginger syrup to an ounce of vodka or whiskey.  The alcohol soothes spasms in the lungs.  Plus it soothes the mind at the same time.

        Tip:  This syrup can be made into a lovely cocktail as well: 2 ounces ginger syrup, 1 ounce vodka or other favorite liquor, mineral water, ice, and slice of lemon.  Especially nice on a cold evening!

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        Soap Making: Learning From A Professional

        Last weekend I was able to watch my friend Kari, the owner of the company The Soap Barn, make a batch of soap.  I’m interested in learning to make my own soap and Kari says she’ll teach me.  A lot of people are scared to make soaps using lye  so they stick to melt-and-pour soaps.  Why use lye?  Lye is the ingredient in soap that makes it harden.  You can’t make soap without it.  A reader mentioned this to me and I’ve done further research and even glycerine soaps are made with lye.  In my experience the melt and pour soaps seem to to be softer while the soaps made from scratch are often harder and last longer.  From the reading I’ve been doing there are many factors that control the texture and the hardness of your soap including the proportions of your ingredients, method used, and the length of time you let your soap cure.  The only benefit of using melt and pour soaps, in my opinion, is to avoid having to use the lye yourself because it’s already been added for you.  Otherwise it’s more expensive to use and you have a lot less control over the quality of your finished product.

        • All her soap ingredients are measured by weight on a scale.

        I have never seen a lye based soap being made so it was fascinating and exciting.  One thing Kari pointed out to me is that she usually has all her soap making components ready to go, but because she was going to show me the process she dissolved her lye while I was there and we let it sit for a while.  When you add water to your measured amount of lye the water starts heating up immediately which is really weird and certainly illustrates how caustic it is.  She said she would normally have mixed the lye and water a couple of hours ahead of time because a lot of soap-making is about temperature.

        A tip from Kari: always add your lye to the water, never the other way around.  If you add water to the lye you could make a lye volcano and hurt yourself.

        All the soap making books and on-line instructions I’ve read have you cooking your lye and oils on the stove top.  Kari used to make her soaps this way too but heard of another way of doing it years ago and hasn’t gone back since.   She adds her lye to her oils and then blends it with an immersion blender until it thickens to the trace point.  When it’s reached the proper thickness she pours it into one of her wooden soap molds and puts it in the oven on a low temperature for several hours.

        Doesn’t that sound easier than cooking it on the stove-top?  Watching Kari make this batch made me feel a lot more confident that I can learn to do this too.

        You can see how thick it got just before she poured it into the mold.

        Here’s Kari smoothing the soap into the mold before heating it in the oven.  After about a day in the mold it will be hard enough to remove and cut into bars but you need to let the bars cure for several weeks, even a few months, for the soap to reach its maximum hardness.

        Why should you bother to make your own soap?  I think there are a few compelling reasons to make your own soap.

        Control Of Ingredients: the majority of soaps out there, whether or not they are fancy or cheap, have a lot of ingredients you’d be better off not using on your skin or polluting our waterways with.  Skin is a porous organ and anything you put on it will also go IN it.  Skin absorbs poisons really well.  So whatever you put on your skin should be healthy, gentle, and pesticide free.  The best way in the world to control what’s in your soap is to make it yourself.

        Cost Effectiveness (household economy):  there are some very cheap soaps out there that will fit a frugal budget but in most cases I’m willing to bet they’ve got a lot of stuff in them you wouldn’t really want inside your body.  Natural soaps are expensive.  You can nearly always save money making things yourself.  Not if you buy expensive kits from craft stores or from fancy gift shops, but if you buy bulk ingredients you can save a lot of money.  Sometimes buying bulk isn’t worth it for one family; consider going in on the ingredients with another family and make the soaps together!

        No Packaging Waste: every single time we purchase something it comes in packaging.  It is possible to buy soaps in specialty shops with no packaging, but this is still rare.  More often than not soap comes wrapped in some kind of paper and often it comes in paper and also a box.  It may not seem like much, but it all adds up.  When you make your own soap you don’t need any packaging.

        Personalized: when you make your own bath products half the fun is in being able to make exactly what you want.  You develop herbal combinations that specifically suit your skin type and your individual taste in scents.  Why let soap companies cram more lavender down your nose?*  There are so many essential oils and herbs you can use in your soaps to suit who you are and what your body really wants.  I think we all deserve that.

        We haven’t set a date yet but when Kari teaches me to make my own batch of soap I’ll be writing up a detailed tutorial so that you can make your own too!

        If you have no interest in making your own but would love to have another source for quality hand made natural soaps- check out Kari’s soaps at The Soap Barn!

        *I LOVE lavender but I have a friend who hates it.

        Hot Spot Remedy: DIY Pet Apothecary

        hot spot remedy 2

        My dog got her first hot spot recently and I couldn’t afford to take her to the vet.  She was licking the base of her tail obsessively and after a couple of days of this a completely bald round spot developed on her tail.  I noticed that it started getting slightly infected looking and so I looked up what the cause might be.  It became clear very quickly that she had a “hot spot” which is a section of skin on a dog that becomes infected with bacteria (known to vets as pyotraumatic dermatitis) and itches, so the dog licks it until it becomes worse and eventually the most infected spot loses its fur and the sore may even ooze with pus.

        In my dog’s case I am almost certain the cause was fleas because we had neglected to give her flea medication for several months.  Other causes of hot spots may be irritated anal sacs, allergies, thick coats, or grooming issues such as tangles and mats.

        A friend of mine who works in a feed store looked up the ingredients in their most highly recommended hot spot treatment and suggested I might be able to make one of my own.  (Thank you Blaize!!)  The three ingredients she mentioned were the chamomile, aloe vera, and the tea tree oil.  It seemed that my dog’s hot spot was very itchy and I had harvested some plantain from my yard because I’d read about its anti-itch properties and I decided that this would make a good addition to the hot spot treatment.

        Once I made up the remedy I sprayed my dog liberally with it directly on her hot spot and then I did my best to lift the fur of her heavy coat to spray the skin surrounding the hot spot.  Before this she had been very agitated about her sore area and when I tried to examine the area she growled and warned me to keep my hands off.  She had been chewing and licking the area obsessively so it was easy to notice that after the first spray application she must have felt some immediate relief.  She stopped bugging the spot almost immediately and only tried licking it again after an hour or two at which point I applied another round of spritzing her hot spot.

        Within 24 hours she stopped touching her hot spot entirely and it was able to scab up and heal.  She still has a little bald spot on her tail but there’s no sore left at all.

        What You’ll Need:

        Non reactive sauce pan (either stainless steel or enamel coated)

        Wooden spoon

        Strainer

        3/4 cups dried chamomile

        3/4 cups dried plantain

        1 Tbsp aloe vera juice

        6 drops tea tree oil

        2 cups water

        8 ounce spray bottle

        Method:

        In a nonreactive small saucepan add the chamomile, plantain, and water and bring to a boil.  Turn down the heat and simmer herbs for a half an hour or until the water has reduced by about half.

        Strain out the herbs and then pour the liquid into the spray bottle.  Add the aloe vera juice and the tea tree oil drops.  Shake well every time before use.

        Store in the refrigerator.

        To use:

        Shake up the remedy and then spray it on the affected area liberally.  Rough the fur up around the hot spot to expose the skin and spray as you do it.

        You should notice an improvement within the first few hours.  Be very careful to notice if the exposed skin of the hot spot reacts to the spray.  If it shows any signs of getting worse stop using the spray immediately.  Though all the ingredients in this remedy are mild and in normal circumstances shouldn’t cause your dog’s skin to react, there is always the possibility that your dog may be allergic to one of the ingredients so use common sense.

        Apply the spray to the hot spot every couple of hours until your dog stops worrying the sore and lets it begin to dry out.  Stop using the spray when the hot spot scabs up and your dog is no longer paying any attention to it.

         

        Elderberry Syrup: DIY Apothecary

        bottled syrup 2

        I used a bottle with a swing top closure (with rubber washer).  I’ve had this one for years and have used it to store flavored vinegars, liqueurs, and now elderberry syrup.  I believe I bought it at a Cost Plus.

        elderberries macro 2

        I foraged these elderberries from my neighborhood.  When foraging for elderberries:  never pick red ones, they are not safe to eat, even when cooked.  The twigs and bark of elderberries are toxic and should never be taken internally and when you’re harvesting the berries, which are very small, be sure not to leave any stems on the fruit as these are also toxic.  The berries should not be eaten raw either*.  Cooking makes them safe to use in pies, jams, liqueurs, wines, and syrups.  They also become more flavorful when cooked.

        elderberry syrup 2

        Pouring the water into the pot of berries.

        Cold medicine 2

        The finished syrup poured into a little shot glass.

        Elderberries have been used medicinally for hundreds of years.  The bark,  stems, and leaves have been traditionally used as healing poultices and the berries are used to make syrups to strengthen the immune system, to lessen the symptoms and shorten the durations of colds, coughs, and flus.  The berries have also been used to make jams, jellies, and pies.  It is important to always cook the berries- they are astringent when raw and could potentially make you sick.  Cooking them not only neutralizes the chemicals in them that can make you sick, but it enhances the unique flavor of the berry.  You can use both the American native varieties or the more traditional European varieties to make this recipe.

        The proportions of ingredients here come from Rosemary Gladstar’s book “Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health”.  Rosemary Gladstar is one of the leading herbalists in our country and it was her herbal training books that my mom learned from to get her herbology certificate.

        I had to do some considerable research to find out about recommended dosage.  I ended up calling my mom for information and what she told me confirmed the information I found online.  It is not possible to overdose on elderberry syrup.  The only ill effect anyone might experience  is a little diarrhea if you eat/drink too many elderberries**, but only in the same way some people experience this eating too much of any fruit.

        • For boosting your child’s immune system during the cold season take a teaspoon every morning and every night.
        • For lessening the symptoms and durations of coughs, colds, sore throats, and flu: take 1 to 2 teaspoons every couple of hours until you are better.

        What my mom said is that you can experiment to find what is most effective for you and your family members.  I found some recommendations on line that suggested taking 2 tablespoons a day for adults and 1 tablespoon a day for children to help avoid colds.  So there is a tremendous amount of flexibility here so that you can find what works.

        Elderberry Syrup

        Ingredients:

        1 cup fresh or 1/2 cup dried elderberries

        3 cups of water

        1 cup honey

        Method:

        1.  Put the berries in a medium sized nonreactive sauce pan and cover them with the water.  Bring the water and berries to a boil and then turn the heat down to low and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes.

        2.  Smash the berries and then strain them out.  (I use butter muslin over a strainer and then squeeze the muslin to get all the juices I can out of the berries.)

        3.  Add the honey and stir well.

        4.  When the syrup has cooled put it into bottles (or jars- but bottles will make for easier pouring), label, and store in the refrigerator.   The syrup will keep for 2 to 3 months.

        You can freeze any extra elderberries to make additional batches of the syrup as you need it.

        *I have seen some extension service information that says you can eat the berries raw, I ate one before I read that they could potentially not be safe to eat raw and was thoroughly unimpressed with the flavor so I am not tempted to eat more raw.  Most sources state that you should cook the berries before eating.

        **This is provided you aren’t allergic to elderberries.

        If you want to know more about foraging and identifying elderberries read this:

        Elderberry: Plant Profile