Author Archives: angelina

Navy Bean and Dandelion Green Salad Recipe

bean salad 2.jpg

I love cold salads made with navy beans (very small white bean) or cannelini beans (a bigger white bean favored in Italian food) because they have a mild bean flavor which pairs perfectly with many summery herbs and vegetables.

This salad is best made in early spring when you can pick very young dandelion greens which are the most tender and least bitter.  If you’re interested in making it now, look for brand new dandelion plants amongst the bigger ones or simply limit yourself to the smallest inner leaves.  You only need a handful.

I cook my beans from dried, rather than canned, but either will do perfectly well.  Because I make my own I always add a chopped onion and some thyme while the beans are cooking (you can see a bit of cooked onion in the picture).

Navy Bean and Dandelion Greens Salad Recipe
serves 6

Ingredients:

4 cups cooked navy beans (or 2 16oz cans)
1/4 red onion diced very small
1 handful of minced dandelion greens
1/4 cup prepared mustard vinaigrette*
1 tsp salt

Method:

Mix all of the ingredients together well.  That’s it.  It’s more of an assemblage than a method. 

May be served room temperature or cold.


*Use your own favorite home made vinaigrette or use my recipe for mustard vinaigrette.

Variation:  when in season you can add one whole chopped cucumber or a large tomato.  Other herbs can be added as well such as parsley (I’d use a tablespoon of minced fresh parsley) or fresh chopped thyme (I’d use a teaspoon) or basil (I’d use a 1/4 cup julienned).

This recipe is gluten free: provided the vinegar you use in the dressing is gluten free.

This recipe is vegan.

Here are some other articles you might be interested in:

Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale): Plant Profile

Mushrooms, Dandelion Greens, and Pasta in a Cheese Sauce

Mustard Vinaigrette Recipe


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Kitchen Garden Notes: May 18, 2010

another pink moss 2.jpgThe moss rose Gloire de Mousseux is in full bloom.  I didn’t prune any of the roses this winter so they’re a riot of tangles.  This one gets very tall.  I’m pleased it didn’t ball up in the spring rain.

arnica macro 2.jpgThe arnica has just started blooming and I have promised myself not to miss out on harvesting it this year.  I got lots of blooms last year and never managed to get them.  They trickle in for a while then bust out in full flower mode and then are suddenly done.  I’m determined to make an arnica salve from my own plants this year.

favas 2.jpgThe favas are beginning to set flowers.  I wish they’d had a chance to get taller first but I planted them late in the season.  Still, I can’t complain about getting such a great germination rate for this bed I planted.  Almost all of the seeds came up.

pea tangle 2.jpgThe peas are very busy vining up.  I have a perennial problem of not providing support before it’s too late.  This variety is semi-self supporting.  We’ll see what happens.  No blossoms yet.

comfrey 2.jpgThe comfrey plants my friends John and Jin brought me from their own garden were looking dreary for a while but they are definitely digging in and I have a feeling they’ll fill out their raised bed well given the chance.  I’ve been wanting to establish a comfrey bed for ages.  Comfrey is brilliant in a healing salve, chickens love to eat it, and it’s also a great additive to the compost bin. 

*Note: as someone has pointed out, this is NOT comfrey.  Comfrey has bell shaped flowers.  I had not yet bothered to verify it’s identity and simply took it for what my friends believed it to be.  If anyone can tell me what it is, I would love some help identifying it.  It isn’t borage but may very well be in the Boraginaceae family- those flowers look a lot like forget-me-nots  but the foliage on the plant is a lot more like borage or comfrey.  At the base the leaves are quite large and form a big clump.  Anyone know? 

Frost peach 2.jpgOf the three peach trees this is by far the healthiest.  It’s “Frost” and seems to be much less inclined to succumb to peach leaf curl.  It has a few peaches that might not drop.  Fingers crossed!

shallot 2.jpgI took the picture before I weeded.  I let this bed go nuts with weeds but when I was out there yesterday I started pulling them out and saw that most of my shallots had successfully come up.  Only a couple of rotters.  Now that I’ve cleared the weeds they should do even better.  They’re planted in a bed with strawberries.

quincelet 2.jpgThe quince tree has really taken off this year and there are quite a few fruits swelling on it.  I’ll have to keep an eye out because the branches are still thin and might not support too much fruit.  Often a young tree will drop most of its fruit so I’ll just have to keep my eye on it.

Apothecary Rose 2.jpgThis is my Apothecary’s Rose that my good friend Nicole gave me from her own garden.  She gave me several own root pots of them and most of them have survived.  This is one of the earliest cultivated roses and was used (as the name suggests) for medicinal purposes.  It’s a once bloomer that is supposed to set hips really well.  I’m pleased to see so many blossoms in this first year in the ground of my garden.

potatoes and thyme 2.jpg

This is my potato bed with most of my thyme plants.  I missed the opportunity to get an early crop of thyme for drying.  I don’t personally like drying and using stems that have flowered.  However, if your thyme is like mine and you’d like to get a good harvest in a month or so, I suggested giving them a trim now.  I plan to do that for mine in the next couple of days.  I used thyme more than any other garden herb.

The potatoes need mulching but I haven’t got a way to get a big bale of hay to our house right now.  So they’ll just have to wait.

I also managed to get planted seven artichoke plants: 5 Violetta and 2 Green Globe.  I put them in a raised bed that’s 8′ x 4′ which if the artichokes grow well will barely be able to contain them.  I didn’t have another spot prepared for them and needed to get them dug in so it’ll have to do.  I can always transplant them later if need be.

I bought, but haven’t planted, 6 tomatoes: Caspian Pink, Green Zebra, Black From Tula, Pruden’s Purple, Sun Gold, and Striped German. 

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Proper Heating For Chicks

And what to do if you overheat one.

Mo collapsed 2.jpg

Chicks have very specific heating requirements.  When they are allowed to hatch with their mother they spend most of their time nestled under her where they are warmed by down.  As they age they’ll venture out more and more.  When they first hatch they aren’t able to regulate their own body heat.  So if you are raising chicks from a feed store, without a mother hen, it’s important to simulate the heat they require.  For this you will need a heating lamp. 

The general guidelines are this:

  • For the first week of a chick’s life the warmest spot in its box (or tub) should be at 95 degrees.  The box should be large enough that they can get out of the heat for breaks, to cool down.
  • Each week you should lower the general temperature by 5 degrees.
  • The best way to monitor the heat level is with a thermometer which should be placed to the side rather than directly underneath the lamp for a more accurate reading. 

However, if you don’t have a thermometer you should do the following:

Start off with the heat lamp about 28″ from the bottom of the area in which you are keeping your chicks.  Measure it with an actual ruler.

  • Keep a fairly close watch on the chicks to see where they spend most of their time.  If they remain constantly huddled right under the lamp, then there isn’t adequate overall heat and you should lower the lamp by one or two inches. 

  • If the chicks are huddled as far away from the heat of the lamp as possible, then it’s too low and should be raised by one or two inches.
  • In an ideally heated environment your chicks will be scattered throughout their quarters feeling comfortable enough to explore all corners.


What to do if you overheat a chick:

Last weekend we discovered one of our chicks collapsed.  In fact, we were sure she was dead because she seemed sunken, she wasn’t moving, she was limp, and her eyes were closed.  While we were sadly trying to figure out where we would bury her, a sad office to perform on a mother’s day, Philip jumped out of his skin when he felt her move a tiny bit.  She still seemed lifeless but he’d felt the tiniest movement of breathing. 

When chicks are tiny they are fairly fragile so we really had no hope that she would make it.  I took her with me into the house, wrapped her in a dry washcloth, planning to simply hold her until she died.  Thinking she would be more comfortable if kept warm, I proceeded to wrap her in a heating pad. 

Her beak started opening and closing very slowly, which seemed hopeful so I ran to get her some water to see if she’d drink and once I dunked her beak a couple of times and saw her throat make a swallowing motion, I ran to call the farm store for advice.  The first thing John the chicken man asked me was how low my heat lamp was.  He said it sounded like the chick was overheated. 

I measured how low my heat lamp was and discovered that I had it at 12″ above the litter which was way too low!  I was really worried about not keeping the chicks warm enough and because I couldn’t find my thermometer I was overcompensating.  In effect, I had cooked my littlest chick. 

On discovering that Mo was dying of heat exhaustion, I immediately removed her from the warmth of the heating pad and continued to force her to drink tiny droplets of water.  While the odds were clearly against her, when I heard her peep for the first time that morning I knew she had a chance. 

If this ever happens to you I would like to offer the following suggestions on how to revive a heat exhausted chick:

  • Remove the chick from the source of the heat immediately and if you have other chicks then adjust the heat lamp so that the other chicks are out of danger.
  • Don’t bury a chick immediately on finding them collapsed.  With a large chicken it’s easy to tell when they’ve stopped breathing.  One week old chicks are so small it isn’t easy to tell.  Try the following tips before giving up.
  • Fill a very small cup (I used a demitasse) with cold water.  Gently dip the chick’s beak into it being careful not to submerge their nostrils which are about halfway up their beaks.  Wait a couple of minutes before trying again.
  • If the chick’s throat swallows the droplets of water, then she’s still got a chance.  Keep doing this for a half an hour or so.
  • If your chick, at this point, starts showing stronger signs of life, I suggest adding a pinch or two of sugar to the water.  This can help give the chick added energy to help revive her.

It took Mo 1 hour before peeping. It took her 2 hours before she started trying to sit up and opened her eyes again.  It took fully four hours after we found her for her to stand up on her own again.  It took five hours for her to start eating scratch again and walking around.

  • Whenever you have an injured or sick bird it is imperative that you remove them from the rest of their flock.  Birds are not kind to injured flock members.  So if you are nursing a small chick back from heat exhaustion, you need to create a separate space for them to recover in.  We put her in a very small box with some food and some litter and set that near the heat lamp in the bigger box where the other chicks were, being careful not to put her directly under the lamp.
  • During the time she was in the separate box I gave her frequent drinks of water by hand because  I couldn’t fit a watering dispenser in the little box.  Chickens are thirsty birds, making sure they have fresh cool water is very important. 
  • When I reintroduced her to the rest of the chicks I kept a close eye on them to be sure she wasn’t being picked on dangerously.  I didn’t consider her safe until I’d spent some time with them to watch the other chicks.

We were very lucky.  I know that in a similar scenario we very well might have lost her.  John the chicken guy advised me to get a replacement chick just in case, and we did that.  But I’m happy to say that Mo, a week after her near death experience, has continued to prosper and it seems she’s going to make it.

 

Other articles on raising chickens:

Caring For Chicks: The First Six Weeks

Choosing Chicken Breeds For Backyard Flocks

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Backyard Flock: meet the new chicks

Our flock of hens is down to three and they are four years old now
which means they’re middle aged and though ours are all still laying
very well, we wanted to add to our flock so that as our older hens slow
down their laying we’ll still have plenty of eggs.  So we brought our
new flock home and here they are:

Anna portrait 2.jpgWe’ve had ameraucanas before and love them.  Not just for the colorful eggs they lay but because they’re cool looking and our experience is that they have great personalities.  We have never had a pale one, which in some places are referred to as lavender Ameraucanas*. 

Bungie portrait 2.jpgThe naming of new chicks is a very important ritual.  You can name your chickens anything you want but there is a strong trend towards giving them antiquated women’s names like Doris, Flora, or Dottie.  I like this trend but my son and husband feel no need to name them according to anyone’s tradition.  I originally let Max (my son) name two of them and was going to let Philip name two of them as well but had to revoke his naming rights after he named our littlest chick.  We originally meant only to get 6 chicks.  We ended up with one extra because we almost lost our Speckled Sussex and the farm store suggested  a back up bird

Anyway, the naming frenzy got out of control and here are some of the names brainstormed between my guys:  Doo-boy, Carlito, Boo-doy, Leroy, Larry, Carl, Bouffant, Curly, Spikey, Lemon-boy, Turd (what is it with 9 year old boys?!), Jumpy-jump, and Blackie. 

Curly-sue portrait 2.jpgI’m willing to bet that no one can guess who named which birds.  Naturally if you’re a farmer who has more than a small flock you don’t indulge in the great chick naming event.  It’s too bad, I must say it adds some lively fun to family life and my kid is much more interested in chicks he gets to take part in naming than chicks he doesn’t.  It becomes more personal to him.  Naming is not recommended for those birds being raised for meat.  We raise ours for the eggs, the manure, and the pleasure of having them around.

Dimity-Jane second p 2.jpgWe have a favorite Looney Tunes cartoon which I think is called “The Stranger” and is about a chick who is adopted by a mother duck who tries to raise the chick with her own ducklings.  The animators did an amazing job of capturing the distinctive way chicks have of moving.  If you haven’t seen that cartoon I suggest trying to get your hands on it.  (We have it on a disc of a cartoon collection.) 

Bob portrait2.jpgBob is difficult to photograph.  She’s not very cooperative and her head being so dark adds another challenge.  We’ve never had Australorpes so we’re pretty excited to have two of them.  Of course, any or all of these chicks could turn out to be a rooster, in which case we’d have to sell them back to the farm store.  Hopefully we’ll end up with at least one Black Australorp. 

Drusilla portrait 2 .jpgI’m curious to see how different Bob and Drusilla will turn out.  Drusilla has a lot more yellow on her but I thought the grown Australorps are all black.

Mohawk portrait 2.jpgThis is Mohawk who had a very stressful weekend during which she very nearly signed off after becoming cooked by the heat lamp.  My next chicken post will give some tips about reviving chicks that have collapsed from overheating.  It is amazing that she made it.  She’s still a little ruffled looking but she’s completely recovered. 

Mo 2.jpgTaking pictures of the chicks in their box is hard.  The lighting is tough on the pictures.  This is Mohawk just after making her full recovery. 

Unceremonious 2.jpg

Drusilla being manhandled by me.  Chicks don’t naturally like being picked up.  Unfortunately for them there isn’t an animal on earth that wouldn’t like to sink its teeth into a baby chick, humans being no exception other than their willingness to plump them up first.  The birds know their position and are therefore suitably skittish around anything not them.  We make a practice of handling our chicks a great deal.  They run, they scuffle, they peep, but in the end they will be forced to suffer our gentle assaults.  Over time they become used to our voices; learn that we are the strange beings who bring treats like snails and greens and best of all in the entire world…watermelon, and will come running when they hear us. 

*Only pure bred Ameraucanas are called “Araucanas”.  Ours are not pure bred.  The kind we got is an Ameraucana or sometimes they’re referred to as “Easter Eggers“. 
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April 29 2010: In The Kitchen Garden

male kiwi 2.jpg

This is the male fuzzy kiwi I got this winter to pollinate the two female fuzzy kiwis that I got two years ago and planted in half wine barrels.  This wasn’t meant to be their permanent resting spot and this year I will be putting all three in the ground to climb over a metal arbor around one of my garden gates.  Hardy kiwis do more reliably well here in the Pacific Northwest but I couldn’t resist the attempt to grow the bigger more well known variety.  I had bought a male to go with the females and it died.  So I know there is risk for them.  I love the fuzzy growth on their stems- and in this male the coloring is really red!  Some people have cute new lambs and kids to get excited over, I have male kiwis.

red currant 2.jpgI also bought three red currants a couple of years ago that ended up living in pots until last month when I finally put the surviving two in the ground in my monastery garden.  That may not be their permanent spot but they needed a more substantial bit of soil to grow strong roots.  They are still very young plants but I saw that one of them flowered and now there are these very tiny berries hanging delicately the thin branch and my hope is that they will ripen so I can finally taste them.  I will need to get one more, of a different variety, to improve pollination, but it’s exciting to see progress in the garden even when it’s small.

red rome apple blossom 2.jpgLast summer we managed to dig up a few of our good plants from our old house.  This was not my favorite apple tree but it was the one in the best condition.  It’s a Red Rome apple.  It already produces quite a few apples on its small form.  We’ll be getting another tree to ensure pollination.  There are apple trees fairly nearby but when one is planning a food producing garden it’s important to make sure that you have all the pollinators available on your own property because you never know when neighbors will cut down their own trees. 

white lilac 2.jpg
A lilac has a place in the kitchen garden just as all flowers do that attract beneficial insects.  I wouldn’t have chosen to plant a white one myself, but this one was already here and now I’ve come to enjoy its delicate coloring.

I’ve been clearing out my raised beds full of quack grass.  This is no easy feat as I have let them really settle in.  The first bed I worked on broke my shovel.  Literally.  My great lesson this year is to never let the quack grass completely take over any of my raised beds.  It’s almost time to plant out the summer vegetables like summer squash, tomatoes, corn (I don’t grow any but many do), cucumbers, and all the other vegetables that need the soil to be warm before transplanting. 

The lettuce I planted is coming up but not nearly as much as I planted, so that’s disappointing.  My peas and favas are up and climbing and looking really robust!  I look forward to growing and eating peas and favas every year.  I’m already planning the dishes I will make with them such as pasta with favas and peas and my constant favorite: grilled polenta and fava rounds which I usually serve with a marinara sauce and other grilled vegetables.

I’d love to know what’s going on in your gardens too!

Grapefruit Avocado Salad

This is a classic winter salad that invites a lot of variations.  The tartness of the citrus is mellowed and complimented by the richness of the avocado.  I am transcribing a very simple version here with almost no adornment because I think it’s always best to start off with something simple and then embellish from there.

I don’t buy a lot of imported produce because I believe it’s important to eat mostly locally grown food but I allow myself a few indulgences and one of the regular indulgences I allow are avocados.  Because I let myself buy quite a lot of avocados I don’t let myself buy citrus very often.  A family friend sent me two boxes full of oranges, lemons, and grapefruits from her own yard that she grew without pesticides- it was a gift  beyond price!  I haven’t had a grapefruit avocado salad in years and it is the perfect antidote to the usual deep winter root vegetable flavors and the grey skies.

 

Ingredients:

4 cups lettuce

1  large avocado

1 grapefruit

4 tbsp mustard vinaigrette

(Serves 4 as a side salad or 2 as a main salad)

Method:
Divide lettuce onto your plates evenly.  Slice the grapefruit in half and then (using a small sharp knife) cut out the sections and divide the slices evenly between the plates.  Slice your avocado in half, remove the pit, and then slice long narrow slices lengthwise.  If serving only two plates of salad remove all the long slices from one half and arrange on one plate (fanning them out is pretty) and then do the same with the other half.  If making four side salads then I cut the long slices in half and divvy the avocado up between the four plates and arrange neatly.  Drizzle 1 tbsp of dressing on each side salad or 2 tbsp on each main salad.

 

Variations: Kalamata olives are very good with citrus and avocado.  Feta is wonderful on this salad.  Instead of a mustard vinaigrette you could use a balsamic or a dressing flavored with rosemary.  Slice red onions paper-thin and add to each plate sparingly.  The same can be done with shallots.  If you don’t have grapefruit but you have very good oranges on hand- use them!  Oranges go very well with the avocado too.

Sewing Tip: Bobbin Thread Color

Usually when you thread your machine you use the same color for the top spool as you do for the bobbin.  This is fine when the fabrics you are sewing together are the same or when the underside of your project will never be visible.  However, if you are sewing something like a place mat and the top side is one color and the underside is a different color, it will look more professional if you match the thread on each side.

This is easy to do: what you need to know is that when you’re top-stitching the thread you see on the right side of the fabric (the side facing up to you) is coming from the top spool of thread and the stitching underneath (the side facing down while
you’re sewing) is coming from the bobbin.

 

Match the bobbin thread as closely as you can to the fabric on the underside of your project.  If there is great contrast between the top and bottom fabrics (as seen in my example) some of the darker thread will still be visible on the underside but it will be a lot more subtle.

Almond Biscotti: A Classic Recipe

I have met many biscotti in my life that I didn’t get along with because they tasted like cardboard.  I don’t like them too sweet either, or covered in chocolate, or filled with dried fruit and citrus rind.  I’m not sure what made me try this recipe in the first place, considering how I felt about this famous cookie at the time, but I did and it transformed my opinion.  I got the original recipe from a favorite cookbook “The Complete Italian Vegetarian Cookbook” by Jack Bishop which I highly recommend.  His recipe calls for eggs plus a couple of egg yolks to add richness to the cookies.  While I am a fan of eggs I am not a fan of a strong yolk flavor*.  So over time I adapted this recipe to better suit my own preference.  I am offering you my version of this classic dipping cookie.

Almond Biscotti

Ingredients:

1 cup whole almonds

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar

1/2 tsp baking powder

Pinch of salt

4 large eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

Method:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Spread the almonds on a baking sheet and lightly toast them (about 8 minutes).   Set them aside to cool but don’t turn off the oven.  Cut parchment paper to the size of a large baking sheet.

In the bowl of your stand mixer blend the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt.  In a separate bowl beat 3 of the eggs with the vanilla extract.  With the mixer on med-low speed add the eggs to the flour in a steady stream and keep the mixer going until the flour and eggs have been completely incorporated.

Roughly chop the almonds (I like to chop them in half so the chunks are fairly big but you can chop them a little smaller if you like).

The dough is very sticky!  Remove it from the bowl of the mixer onto a floured pastry board or your counter – you will need a pastry scraper to help you knead the dough gently (just until it’s smooth).  You will need to add more flour as you go along and may even need to rinse your hands off once or twice.

Gently knead the almonds into the dough.

Cut the ball of dough into two pieces.  One at a time, transfer each one to the parchment paper covered baking sheet and roll them out until they’re about 12″ long and flatten out so that they’re about 3″ wide.

Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl and add a small splash of water.  Brush the egg wash on the outside of the dough, including the sides.

Bake in the oven (on a middle rack) for 30 minutes.

Remove the cookie loaves from the oven and turn the oven down to 325 degrees.  Let the loaves cool for a few minutes (allowing the oven to reduce in temperature as well) and then cut them up on the diagonal in approximately 1″ wide pieces.

Turn them on their sides and return to the oven for ten more minutes.  If you live in a damp climate, as I do, I recommend turning your oven off after ten minutes but let the cookies completely cool down inside the oven.  The texture of these cookies is definitely hard and crisp enough to encourage dipping, but if your air is generally a little damp then the cookies may not achieve as satisfying a dryness as is desired.  When they’ve completely cooled store them in an air-tight container.


Recipe Notes: I think the egg wash is important here, but I hate that one recipe of these only uses about half of the beaten egg.  So if you want to be extra thrifty, I suggest doing a double batch at a time.  Each recipe makes about 24 biscotti (depending on how thickly you cut them) so if 48 biscotti sounds extreme- freeze half of them for later or share them with others!  If you’re out of vanilla extract (as I am right now!) you can scrape some vanilla bean seeds into the eggs and let them sit for ten or fifteen minutes.

*So unless I get one of my friends who are excellent cooks to do a hollandaise sauce recipe for Stitch and Boots, there won’t be one.  I can’t stand any sauce made up primarily of egg yolks.  Mrs. Carlton?  Mrs. Evich?  Mrs. Lagarde?  Any of you up for the challenge?

 

Pantry Shelves: how to clean, store, and organize your kitchen dry-goods.

One of the goals of the Farmhouse Finishing School is to help people learn better household management skills.  Keeping your spice and dry-goods shelves in your kitchen organized and cleaned out may seem a little too Martha-Stewart-perfect for some people but there are excellent reasons why you should periodically look at the food and spices you’re storing on your kitchen shelves and exert some effort to organize and clean it all up.  This is a primer on pantry management.  Some people have actual pantries, big enclosed rooms in which to store their canned and dry goods for cooking with, but most people have only a few shelves in their kitchen to use as their pantry.  In either case, the place where you store all your bulk long-term storage goods needs to be periodically inspected and cleaned.

Here are a few reasons to do this:

  • Inspecting your dry-goods closely allows you to identify any pantry pest infestations.
  • Discover what dry-goods you don’t use and don’t buy them in the future.
  • Organizing what you have allows you to remember things you could be using that were hidden from view.
  • Storing your dry-goods properly will allow you to prolong their shelf-life.
  • When you can see what you have on hand you are less likely to buy doubles of anything.

A view of my kitchen cabinet before the clean-up.  Please observe that many things were shoved on the shelves in plastic bags.  Goods stored in plastic bags are hard to see, vulnerable to pests, and more likely to go stale before being used, and there are health issues to consider as well.  What a mess!

Over a period of several months I have been negligent about storing my pantry goods properly and this has caused several problems.  I finally got tired of not being able to see at a glance what was on my shelves and I decided to tackle the mess.  It took six hours to tame my spice cabinet and my food shelves, a task which would have taken a lot less time if I had been in a habit of storing things properly in the first place and cleaning my cabinets out more often.  It’s a good idea to do a thorough clean-out at least twice a year.

I discovered that I had three boxes of powdered sugar, about six packages of mustard seeds, old grains that were stale, and spices with no integrity left they were so old and grey.  Because I have to be careful with what I spend on groceries I see that I have been exercising poor household economy.  If your kitchen cabinets look at all like mine did, then you need to clean them out too.  Where to begin?  It can be a daunting project.  I understand a reluctance to dive in but the rewards are worth it.  Be prepared to clean out a lot of jars.    If you have a working dishwasher this may save quite a bit of time.  I don’t, so I had to wash a ton of them by hand.  The first concept I want to discuss, before you dive in is proper storage containers.

Out with plastic- in with glass!

I can’t stress this enough: storing anything long-term in plastic is a practice you must wean yourself off of.  Plastic is an unstable material.  It emits, at different temperatures (most notably in heat) and in reaction to certain foods, molecules into your water and food.  Please feel free to do some research on the subject as I have done. Food kept in plastic containers can take on the smell and taste of plastic.  All plastics off-gas chemicals when new and many plastics off-gas from the time they’re made until they completely biodegrade which could take a few hundred years.    Once plastic molecules enter our water and/or food and we ingest them, they build up in our bodies and studies have shown that these plastic molecules are shared with babies through their mother’s breast milk. Plastics have been implicated in many health issues and continue to be studied.

If you insist on continuing to use plastics to store food be sure that the plastics you use are Bisphenol-A free, don’t reheat food in plastic in the microwave even if your plastic containers say they are “microwave safe”, and don’t store sauces in plastic as it has been found that the wetter your food the more likely a transference of plastic molecules to your food is.

Glass is generally more expensive than plastic storage containers but well worth the investment.  Glass is a completely inert material and therefore doesn’t off-gas chemicals into the air or into your food or body.  Cared for properly it can last indefinitely and is therefore will save you money over plastic in the long run.  Glass will never give your food an off flavor.    The number one best pantry container to store your dry-goods in  are swing-top jars.

 

Swing-top jars, also called wire bale jars, have a replaceable rubber gasket and a metal clamp which secures the lid tightly onto the jar with and airtight seal.  The gaskets will dry out and crack with age so a part of your cabinet clean-out is to replace old gaskets.

The disadvantage of swing-top jars is that they can be costly to buy.  If you have a “Cost Plus” near you,  see if they have any on hand.  I have, in the past, found their prices to  be reasonable.  You can also find these at most well stocked kitchen supply stores.  Sometimes you can find them in thrift stores.  If you find them used just be sure to sniff the interior before buying.  It is extremely rare for glass to take on a permanent odor but I had it happen to one jar.  Look for scratches on the interior, scratches compromise the usefulness of a jar rendering it much more likely to break.  Be sure to replace the gasket (if it even has one) with a new one when you get it home.  If you can afford to invest in a larger quantity of these jars at one time you can buy them from manufacturers online.  The best deal I have found so far is from Freund Containers, by the case.  They have a minimum order amount so be sure you are prepared to meet it.  You don’t need a special license to buy from them.  (Just to be clear: I have no affiliation with them at all except as a customer of their goods.  If you buy from them I receive no compensation or benefits.)
 

The next best storage container for your pantry goods are canning jars.  These come in many different sizes.  They have a two piece lid which creates a good seal if you screw it tightly.  These jars are much less expensive to buy than the swing-top jars.  The disadvantage of these is that it is impractical to screw the lids tight enough to get an airtight seal because if you manage to get the lid on that tightly you may not be able to unscrew them later.  While I have never had a pest invasion in my swing-top jars I have definitely had a breach of my canning jars by pests.  But with good cupboard management you can keep this problem at a minimum.

Getting Started:

  • Clean up your kitchen before you start this project.  You will need all the counter space and dish-rack space you have.
  • Have a stack of clean dry dish towels ready.
  • Be sure you have a sharpie pen on hand for labeling jars as you go along.
  • Pick one shelf to start working on.

How to clean and organize the shelves:

  • Pull everything off the shelf you’ve picked to start with.  Everything.  Put it all out on your counter.  If you don’t have enough counter space you may consider dragging a small table into your kitchen temporarily to give you more space to lay it all out.  (If your kitchen is too small for this then even bringing in a chair can give you extra surface space.
  • One jar at a time, examine what you have.  Open each jar and look closely at the contents and give it a smell test.  If you haven’t used the contents in over a year you probably aren’t going to use it this year either. Throw it out.
  • Any herb or plant matter can be dumped on your compost pile.  If you have a hot composting system you can dump everything on the pile.  If you have a cold composting system you will want to avoid putting grains or proteins in it.  If you have hens some of your old grains may be enjoyed by them.  (But don’t give them rancid food.)
  • Clean the jars you empty as you go so they’ll be available for anything that’s been left in plastic bags and needs to be jarred.
  • Any goods still in plastic bags: transfer to jars and label the jars with your sharpie (directly onto the glass).
  • Wipe the empty shelf clean with a damp  dish towel or sponge.  Any spilled food, especially grains, will attract pests.
  • Put everything that has passed inspection back on the shelf.

Repeat these steps for all of the shelves you need to go through.  Once you have finished throwing old food out and cleaning up what you have you can spend a little time organizing the shelves to make more efficient use of them.
Here are some guidelines for deciding what to keep and what to toss:

  • Herbs and spices are generally at their best for one year.
  • Herbs and ground spices should have a pleasant strong odor on opening the jar.  If you can’t smell them or if the smell is weak, they are most likely too old to do your food any service.  Toss them out.  Save any glass spice jars and soak them in warm soapy water to remove the labels.
  • Turn the contents of jars around and upside down.  If you can see any webbing the contents have been compromised by a pest and should be thrown out.  If the contents (especially with regard to spices) don’t shift and move when you shake the jar around then they have probably settled from disuse and compacted- this is generally an indication that they are very old and should be discarded.  In some cases this will mean the contents got a little damp and should also be tossed out.
  • Look for any visible weevils or moth larvae.  Toss anything that has them.  (If the item is something your chickens might safely enjoy – give it to them.  They love to eat bugs!)
  • Everything should get the sniff test.  If you don’t have a great sense of smell then have someone in your family who does perform this test.  Flour, nuts, oils, nut butters, and grains can all go rancid.  The smell will be slightly sour and musty.
  • Canned goods, whether made at home or bought from the store, may be capable of lasting 10 years but they don’t actually improve with age and their nutritional integrity, like all stored foods, declines incrementally starting from the moment they are first canned.  In most cases you shouldn’t hold onto canned goods for more than two years.  If you haven’t eaten it by then, you won’t, you’re just hoarding it.  My personal rule of thumb is that if I haven’t eaten it in a year I toss it out.  You can put the contents of most canned goods on your compost pile so that they really aren’t going to waste but will add to your soil.  (Recycling at its best!)  The exceptions I make to my one year rule of thumb is if I preserve way more of something than I need one year and I have lots left over the next.  If I’m making my way through the jars of that item I will keep it, knowing that I’m actually eating it.  This is true of the pickles I made the year before last.  I made twice as many as we could eat in a year and we have been steadily working our way through them.  I still have some left and we’re still eating them.*  On the other hand, I have some jalapeno jelly that I made a year and a half ago that didn’t have any heat to it and so I didn’t really enjoy it and haven’t been eating it.  It’s time to toss it out.
  • Cabinet items that have been stored in their original packaging, such as crackers and cereals, should all be checked for freshness.  They go stale surprisingly fast.  One way to prolong the shelf life of cereals and crackers is to transfer them to swing-top jars when you get them home.  I now do this automatically with most boxed items.
  • Baking soda and baking powder don’t necessarily go stale or rancid but they will become less effective.  It is wise to replace them every six months or so.  You can often buy them from bulk bins and transfer them to permanent jars in your cupboard.  Buy small quantities to reduce possible waste.

Now that everything is clean and all your food is in labeled jars…how do you organize it all?

There isn’t one answer to this because how you use your kitchen is highly personal.  You must think about how you cook.  What things do you reach for the most?  Those things should be on the lowest most accessible shelves.  Reserve the top shelves for bulk goods you don’t use as often, or for back up bottles of condiments you buy or make in multiples.

I have organized my own cabinets so that my son’s snack foods are all in one place on a low shelf.  My other lowest shelf has my baking goods on it (sugars, nuts, raisins, chocolate chips) and the next shelf up has the flours and grains I use the most.  The top shelf has my dried legumes which I only grab for once or twice a week to make big batches of them.  My spice rack is loosely organized by my use of them.  I have all my sweet  baking spices, including baking soda and baking powder, on one shelf.  I have my spicy and savory herbs on another shelf together.  I have all my bulk spices (like black peppercorns and mustard seeds) in large jars on the two shelves they will fit on.  This works for me but perhaps you cook differently and so you need to think about how you grab for things and group your jars together accordingly.

Pantry organizing tips:

  • Group like things together: it is much easier to make shopping lists when you can easily see all like-items next to each other.  If you know you need more olive oil and you’re looking at the shelf where you keep it but you don’t see any vegetable oil (because you put it somewhere else) you may decide to buy some because you think you’re out.
  • Put the things you use the most on the most accessible shelves.
  • Spices and herbs should be close enough to your stove to be easily grabbed without being stored right above it where the heat and moisture from the stove can degrade them quickly.

Don’t be afraid to try different ways of organizing your pantry.  Once you’ve already cleaned and sorted through your supplies it is much easier to move them around and play with how best to arrange them all.
Now, go put on some motivating music, crack open a festive beverage, and get those cabinets looking shiny and fresh!
*However, they are softer now than they were when under a year old.  They are not getting better with age.  I’m just not going to waste them because they still taste good and we’re still using them up.

Turmeric Roasted Rutabagas

Rutabagas aren’t as commonly used in the US as turnips and yet they are, in my opinion, much more delicious.  In Scotland and other places in Europe rutabagas are known as “yellow turnips” or “Swedes”.  When raw they have a similar sharp peppery bitter smell and a watery crisp consistency but when roasted rutabagas are much richer than regular turnips.  They are a golden color and sweeten with roasting.

 

In this recipe I have seasoned rutabagas with turmeric which intensify the golden color of the rutabagas and add an additional earthy tone to the flavor.  This is a simple side to make to dinner whether you are having a vegetarian main course or a meat dish.  It is a fall and winter root vegetable which can be stored in root cellars so may also still be available in early spring, but by mid spring should no longer be making appearances on the dinner table.  Enjoy it now!

Turmeric is not a spice I use often but I got inspiration from my friend Riana here on her flickr pages in her series on healing herbs and spices and how to use them in everyday ways.

Ingredients:

4 medium to large rutabagas, trimmed cubed to 1″ pieces

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 tsp turmeric

a couple of pinches of coarse sea salt

several grinds of pepper

Method:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.   In a large roasting pan or a large heavy duty baking sheet, spread out the rutabagas.  Sprinkle the salt and turmeric on the rutabagas.  Grind the salt on them.  Drizzle all of the oil on them and then, using a spatula, toss the vegetables in the oil and spices until thoroughly coated.

Put in the oven and every ten minutes turn the rutabagas with a spatula to be sure that all sides have a chance to roast.  When the rutabagas are soft and melting on the inside with crunchy golden roasted edges, they are ready to serve.  At this temperature it should take between 45 minutes and an hour.

Recipe Notes: You can cook these more quickly by increasing the oven heat to 400 degrees, but if you do this you need to check them more frequently to prevent scorching.  I like to use an herbed coarse salt on all my roasted vegetables, if you’d like to do the same but don’t have any you can simply add  1/2 teaspoon of your favorite dried herb combination.